Travelogue: Getting Into the Lake District

I am settled into the lounge at the Sunnydowns Hotel in Colwyn Bay, North Wales.  I’ve been without Internet access for a few days so will try to get caught up with the trip.  Photos are busy uploading in the background while I type.  It’s been a busy couple of days…

We left Stratford on Tuesday, heading for the Lake District.  We knew it woBridge over the Lancaster Canaluld be a long driving day but planned a few stops, including the various potteries in Stoke-on-Trent.  We hit up Wedgwood and Royal Doulton for deals on china.  Once we got past the bigger cities like Manchester and Liverpool, we stopped for a late lunch along the Lancaster Canal.  We saw houseboats just like those on the Avon River in Stratford.

The landscape began changing the further north we traveled.  Hills lined with stone walls and littered with sheep rose from the road.  Then, the mountains appeared.  Finally, the road came alongside Grasmere Lake.  Dove CottageOur last stop of the day was Dove Cottage in Grasmere, the home of William Wordsworth, and the place he wrote many of his most famous works.  He was visited by all his friends here including Samuel Taylor Coleridge and Thomas DeQuincey.  The house is furnished with original furniture and cases are filled with memorabilia like his ice skates, dishes, and spectacles.  Excerpts from his sister Dorothy’s diary for the dates of our visit were lying on the table in the entry room, which originally served as the kitchen.  I don’t want to gush too much but it was pretty amazing to be standing in his study, imagining him writing Daffodils after coming in from the garden.

We drove north into Keswick and found our way to the Scales Farm, a lovely B&B along A66 with gorgeous views of the fells.  We ate a pub dinner–fabulous steak and ale pie–at the Salutation Inn in Threlkeld and watched the local pool club play.

Travelogue: Chester

Starbucks in ChesterOut of the Lake District and on to Wales on this grand tour of England!  We had pegged Chester as a good stopping point on a short driving day and we were not disappointed.  This ancient walled city is right on the border.  After a quick lunch at a spot on the second floor that looked out onto the street, we did a little shopping, which it seems is what Chester is known for these days.  The “rows” as they are known are two floors of shops that line the main streets of the town.  No cars allowed so it is relaxing to wander, marveling at the timber architecture amongst the modern retailers.  Couldn’t help but take a picture of the Starbucks!

Stained Glass

We ended with the Cathedral: just amazing!  Beautiful stained glass windows tucked into soaring arches.   A wonderful escape from the commercial buzz outside.  We took the audio tour and got lots of great details about the cathedral that dates back to 1092.  You can view more photos, mostly of the cathedral, here.

Travelogue: Stratford-Upon-Avon

The CottageWe came to Stratford in search of William Shakespeare, and he wasn’t hard to find.  Stratford was the bard’s birth place.  He married Anne Hathaway here but pretty quickly left for London where he gained fame as an actor and writer.  He returned to Stratford at the end of his life, though, and is buried at Holy Trinity Church.  We toured several Shakespeare sites.  All three were well kept with helpful tour guides.  The birth home, in particular, had several costumed interpreters and an excellent exhibition on the Shakespeare’s life.  Anne Hathaway’s cottage is the birth home of his wife and is located about a mile outside of town.  Shakespeare’s birthplace is in central Stratford.  We visited Mary Arden’s farm, the original home of his mother. It was rainy, but we were able to get through the farm with its birds of prey, chickens, and pigs.  I had fun looking at the animals and was a little homesick for my chickens.  I tested out the video capabilities of my camera and was pretty impressed:

These are Gloucestershire Old Spot pigs.
The Window Above Shakespeare

We also made a pilgrimage to Holy Trinity Church, where Shakespeare is buried.  A church was first mentioned in this spot in 845 AD.  The present building dates from 1210 AD.  The surrounding churchyard is filled with graves from many different eras.  Moss covered stones hug the ground while crosses and obelisks rise above.  The spire of the church is visible from everywhere in Stratford.  The stained glass window is just above Shakespeare’s grave at the front of the church.

House Boats Along the RiverStratford is along the Avon River and there were long house boats tied up at various places.  As we walked along the river, I saw a sign on the window of one of the boats, advertising a book.  I couldn’t resist: I knocked on the door and was welcomed in by Jeremy Scanlon and his wife Dorothy.  Jeremy is an American who was captivated by the boats and spent many years providing tours through the rivers and canals of England.  His book, Innocents Afloat, tells his story.  The boat–a 70 foot narrow boat called the Unicorn–was amazing.  Long and thin, there was a sitting room, kitchen, bedroom and bath all in a row.  The walls under the window were lined with books.  He and his wife have a home along the canal but spend a good bit of their time on the boat.  I was so glad I knocked on that door!  And now I’m hoping to get back some day and do my own tour on a boat.

You can view more photos here.

Travelogue: Hampton Court Palace

Entering Hampton CourtJust a few miles outside of London is what is reputed to be Henry VIII’s favorite palace: Hampton Court.  He would take a barge down the Thames from London. The palace originally belonged to Cardinal Woolsey, Henry’s Lord Chamberlain.  When Woolsey failed to obtain Henry’s divorce from his first queen, Katherine of Aragon, he fell from favor, and Henry took Hampton Court for himself.  It was also popular with monarchs after that, including William and Mary.

We toured the kitchens and several monarch’s state rooms along with the gardens.  The Clock Tower at Hampton Court PalaceThe rooms were furnished with period pieces and beautiful paintings and tapestries. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed in any of the apartments.  The palace tour included an excellent introduction to the English monarchy.  The palace has impressive gardens and a maze.   Like almost every major attraction, there was a cafeteria as well.  We spent several hours wandering around and then had a late lunch.

You can view some additional photos here.

Travelogue: Second Day in London

St. Martin in the FieldsWe started out a little earlier today.  Again rode a bus and the Picadilly Tube Line into London.  Got off at Picadilly Circus and made our way to Trafalgar Square.  Along the way, we stopped into St. Martin’s in the Field to check on the Cafe in the Crypt and check out the church and the gift shop. We wandered through Trafalgar Square, admiring the lions and the fountains and the other statues, including the one of George Washington outside the National Portrait Gallery.

Buckingham PalaceThen, with the huge crowds, we headed along St. James Park to Buckingham Palace.  The Changing of the Guard was meant to start at 11:30.  We got to see part of the Guard head down the street and followed them to the Palace.  It was packed!  We watched the Horse Guard arrive and then headed back across the park.  It was really just too crowded to see much.  I shot a little video but was happy to head back to the park to escape the crowds.

We saw lots of wildfowl in the park: grebes, widgeons, coots, moorhens, several different types of gees, and white and black swans.

Elgin MarblesWe headed back to St. Martin’s for a lovely lunch in the crypt and tried to figure out the afternoon.  We decided we wanted to see the British Museum more than St. Paul’s so we hopped on the tube.  Again, huge crowds greeted us.  St. Giles Circus was under construction and it took us some time to get our bearings.  Eventually, we made it to the museum, which was also crowded.  But we sought out the Rosetta Stone, the Sutton Hoo burial objects, and the Elgin marbles.  On our way to the Sutton Hoo, we saw lots of great Celtic antiquities and all those wonderful mummies and mummy cases.  It’s just an amazing collection of stuff!

Of course, the Greek government has been suing to get the Elgin marbles back and there was an interesting pamphlet that made the case for keeping them at the British Museum.  I’m sure Egypt would like to have the mummies, too.

St. Paul'sWe got back on the tube for a visit to St. Paul’s.  We knew it would probably be closed but at least got to walk around it and even got to take a quick peek inside before the Holy Eucharist started.  From there, we walked down to the Victoria Embankment and walked along the Thames to the Temple Tube Station.

My legs are tired but I feel like I’ve really seen London.  It’s the same interesting mix of old and new that I’ve seen in other cities like Lucerne and Milan.  When you look up you see the ornate architecture with gargoyles leering down and statues of the famous standing in crevices.  When you look down, you see a multi-ethnic city.  Different languages fly through the air around you.  Taking public transportation really emphasized that…everyone ride the trains and buses from businessmen in suits and ties carrying briefcases to young people in grungy clothes, spiky hair and studs in their noses with ipods and backpacks to Muslim women in head scarves and long dresses with shopping bags.

Travelogue: First Day in London

I’m really too tired to post, but I don’t want to forget…my parents and I started our two-week tour today.  Waterloo StationWe had wonderful English porridge for breakfast then headed to downtown London from our hotel near the airport.  We managed to navigate public transportation, first a bus, then the tube, to get to Waterloo station.

We had hopes of taking the London Eye, but the crowds were amazing so we hopped on a boat instead to the Tower of London.  We got a nicely guided tour from the boat’s crew as we headed down the river.

What to say about the Tower?  All that gruesomeThe Tower of London history of the murders, torture and executions.   The ravens are cawing and you climb the tiny, circular staircases, imagining Henry and Anne and Elizabeth sweeping through the rooms.  Edward I is celebrated in the White Tower and there’s a beautiful sculpture near the spot where so many lost their heads.

We took the boat back up the river and this time got off at Westminster.  We were hoping to tour the Abbey but were too late to catch the last tour.  And, the sign indicated it would be closed the next day, too, for a special event.  We were disappointed but decided to stay for Evensong.  What a wonderful stumble upon…the service was perfect after the long day of touring, beautiful choir song, notes rising into that awesome space, surrounded by the memento mori of the crypts and sculptures and grave stones.  I was facing the huge stained glass window. Westminster Abbey

I was mostly disappointed about not getting to Poet’s Corner and paying homage to Chaucer.  As I looked around during the service, though, I realized we were on the edge of the corner.  When the service was over, I took a moment to walk towards the back of the area in which we were sitting, and there it was: Chaucer and all the rest!  I didn’t get to take pictures but it was OK.  A lovely personal memory wrapped in the beauty of the service.

Tomorrow is Buckingham Palace, St. Paul’s Cathedral and the British Museum.  We want to have lunch at the Cafe in the Crypt at St. Martin’s in the Field.

Morning Muse

My husband is heading out to do some volunteer work for a local agency that builds and repairs houses. So, we’re up early. It’s not even 8 AM and the dogs have been walked, chickens have been fed, and there’s a fresh pot of coffee brewing. I have a few things on my list of to dos but nothing pressing and a full week at home next week. So, it’s the weekend and the question is what do I WANT to do?

  • Play some music: I’m playing in a recorder trio so I have music to practice. Plus, I have other solo stuff. There’s always the piano as well.
  • Read some: I finished A Tree Grows in Brooklyn and picked up Annie Dillard’s The Living last night. Got through a few pages before it was time to go to sleep so would love to continue with that today. It’s set in northern Washington, and I’m reliving our visit to that still somewhat wild country.
  • Crochet: I’m currently making octagonal granny squares with some leftover red cotton yarn. Inspired by all the great craft sites out there, I took a picture of my two tea cozies (see below). The blue one is for a friend and includes a pad for the bottom. My next crochet project is to try making socks. I got a great book at the Michael’s near my hotel and have some variegated brown cotton yarn. The Sound of Music is on tonight, and I am looking forward to settling in and crocheting.
  • Work on my England map. My parents and I are going to England in October. They love to travel and are already in the midst of planning. After they called last night, I created a new Google map and started marking some of the places I want to visit including Stonehenge, Glastonbury, and Bath. The lake country is pretty far north, but nothing in England is very far away so we may be able to do it. I also want to go to Wales.

crocheted tea cozies

I was a good weight watcher yesterday and even saved up enough points for a glass of wine. I made this pasta from 101 Cookbooks using fresh spinach from the greenhouse. I also added ground chicken and did not bake it. Paired with big salads, this was a healthy, yummy dinner. And there are plenty of leftovers for lunch. I think tonight are baked tilapia fillets and Easter dinner will be pork loin and pineapple stuffing.

In The Shadow of Wounded Knee

Our dog–a 14-year-old black lab–was very much part of our routine. Ivy slept in with us and was content to hang out with us, more person than dog. Then, we took on Zuzu and Tina Turner. They had come from a home where the schedule really revolved around them. So, now, instead of the dogs sleeping in until I get up, they get me up, usually somewhere around 6:30 or so. I pull on some clothes and shoes and we head down my neighbor’s dirt road. We had big thunderstorms last night so it was very wet this morning as we turned onto the edge of the clover field. Then, it’s breakfast, which requires a little policing since Tina Turner, the smallest one and my ADD child, takes awhile to finish hers and if I’m not watching, the big dogs finish their food then push her out of the way and eat hers, too. Now, we have all settled back down: Ivy in bed with my husband, Tina next to me on her blanket, and Zuzu with his bear in the “man cave” in the office. And, it’s only 7:30!

Yesterday, I got started early and by noon time had most of a PhotoStory done. Today is all about movie maker and then I’m about done with the digital storytelling workshop. I even had time to sit on the swing with a cup of coffee and a book yesterday. How lovely. the chickens flock around and the dogs find their spots, noses to the air, as we all welcome the early signs of Spring.

My colleague has been looking for work since our grant is ending and he found a request for consulting in South Korea. Cool…we’re going to see each other tonight and tomorrow for a meeting and we can strategize. There’s also a call for doing online stuff for Texas. I haven’t gone out looking. Right now, I have enough work but maybe by fall when my dissertation is about done, I can start looking around. I very much like my lifestyle: mostly working from home but enough travel to keep it interesting and enough changes to get into schools. One of my clients may be doing some work with DC; I would love to be part of that!

Keith Phipps at the AV Club has been reading through a box of vintage paperbacks and then writing about them. In that spirit, I pulled books off my shelf that I’ve bought, looked at, but not seemed to find time to read. I put them in a basket in the bedroom and am now working my way through them. They are, by all means, not all the unread books on my shelf, but just the 15 or so that fit in the basket. It makes it seems less daunting, I suppose.

I had started In the Shadow of Wounded Knee by Roger L. Di Silvestro some time ago but only made it through the first few pages. Then, for some reason, it ended up under the clock radio on my night stand and that was the end of it. The books under the clock radio ended up in the basket, mostly because the pile had gotten precipitously tall and the clock radio looked in danger of plummeting onto my head if things even got too out of hand in the bed, if you know what I mean. So, they went into the basket and as I decided what to read first, I figured I’d start with Di Silvestro since I had already invested some time in the book.

It is excellent. The premise of the book is that the Indian Wars didn’t really end until after Wounded Knee in January 1891 when Plenty Horses killed Edward Casey and then several ranchers ambushed Lakota Hunters. So far, much of it has been a review of history with which I am already very much familiar. Yet, Di Silvestro makes it fresh as he shows the nuances of how both whites and Native Americans felt and acted during the time. His story also reminds us that the Native Americans really never had a chance. Even when they tried to follow the rules, they were often massacred.

One point that Di Silvestro made that I don’t remember thinking about before was that those Native Americans who did come into the reservation seemed to be treated more harshly, despite their cooperation, than those chiefs like Sitting Bull who chose to stay out. That made it difficult for the cooperating chiefs to convince their young warriors that they had done the right thing by surrendering to the white man. I have been to Wounded Knee and I can picture those lonely wind-swept plains and the small church. We could almost hear the voices of the dead as we stood and looked over the site of the massacre more than 100 years before. It still haunts the landscape.